Alison is a big city girl. On the way home from our mother-daughter trip to New York last year she asked, “Mom, can we move to New York City?” (To which I answered, “Absolutely not!”) She’s the one who was most excited about seeing London, but it was a lot of fun for all of us -- completely different from Iceland and a little more luxurious.
We arrived in the evening of July 3rd and stayed just across the bridge from Parliament and Big Ben. Despite London having a reputation for being very expensive, it’s all relative. £12 for a meal (roughly $15.50) seemed downright cheap after Iceland! We ate dinner around the corner from our hotel, the weather was perfect, and we were incredibly happy to see darkness again.
We arrived in the evening of July 3rd and stayed just across the bridge from Parliament and Big Ben. Despite London having a reputation for being very expensive, it’s all relative. £12 for a meal (roughly $15.50) seemed downright cheap after Iceland! We ate dinner around the corner from our hotel, the weather was perfect, and we were incredibly happy to see darkness again.
Playing on the sculpture outside the hotel, with Big Ben in the background
Day 1: Independence Day in the Country We Gained Independence From
For some reason, I really wanted to see the Changing of the Guard, so we built our first day around that. We slept in, then took a leisurely walk across the Westminster Bridge, past Parliament and Westminster Abbey, took the Birdcage Walk along St James’ Park and ended up stuck in the crowd along the fence at Buckingham Palace. The guard changing was OK. There was a band that played both classic numbers and also things like Life is a Highway. It lasted forever. It was really hot. We couldn’t see much. In short, this turned out to be my least favorite thing in London. The Changing of the Guard at Arlington Cemetery is much better. It’s silent, you can see what’s going on, and it’s short and sweet. I was jokingly comparing the U.S. to England the whole day since we were spending our Independence Day in the country we gained independence from. The U.S. won this one.
Hanging Out in Trafalgar Square
We were starving and so, without looking at reviews or guidebooks, we found a restaurant in Trafalgar Square called The Admiralty where we got meat pies. They had a pretty good local cider too. We lucked out.
I couldn't help but think about Sweeney Todd :/
They have gobs of famous impressionist paintings (I’ve never seen so many Monets). But the thing that made me so, so happy was the entire wall of Diego Velazquez paintings, including the La Venus del espejo (The Toilet of Venus). Pretty neat and totally beats the other sunflower painting they have.
Velazquez
I saw this too.
Photo Credit: Nathan King
About to Board
View from Above
The Thames
Day 2: Museums & Trains
Watergate (the prisoner entrance) with the Real World Behind It
I love the Underground and I love, love, love the Tower of London (my 3rd favorite thing in London as it turns out). It’s hard to imagine that by the time the U.S. was founded, the Tower of London was already well over 700 years old. We took a tour with a jaunty Yeoman Warder who was hilarious. He liked to make anti-American jokes and tell historic tower stories in the most gruesome way possible. (Luckily, the kids weren’t paying attention most of the time.)
Yeoman Warder
We learned about the exotic animals that used to live in the Tower.
Scarier than Lions & Tigers & Bears
The White Castle
Best Use of Old Armor
View from the White Castle
Maddie's 1st Cone
Rosetta Stone
Some Famous Horse Head
Then, we did my second favorite thing in all of London. We visited Platform 9 ¾! We waited in a photo line long enough to make anyone that isn’t a diehard Harry Potter fan angry. Luckily, three of us are pretty big fans. One of us was angry.
Off to Hogwarts!
This could not have made me happier. :)
Day 3: Westminster & Tea
I went to Westminster Abbey primarily because most people say it’s really neat. I thought it would be just another impressive gothic cathedral like the one I used to pass everyday on my way to school the semester I studied in Spain. What I didn’t know is that it’s basically a cemetery for a lot of really famous people (AND impressive gothic cathedral)!
Alison @ Westminster Abbey
Waiting to Get Inside
Darwin, a bunch of Kings and Queens, Isaac Newton, Chaucer, and Dickens -- the list goes on and on. I don’t know what it is about stumbling upon old cemeteries with famous people in them, but I just love it (Boston’s got some good ones too)! That made Westminster Abbey my favorite spot in London. The best area was Poet’s Corner, where many of Britain’s most famous authors are buried or have memorials (like Shakespeare and Jane Austen). Anyway, the audio guide is pretty great and even a six-year-old understood how important this place was.
Westminster Abbey Courtyard
Alison & I in the College Gardens
Ready for Tea!
We got there a little early...
...and explored the palace gardens.
Kensington Palace Gardens
Maddie
Tea was unbelievably good. (Shout out to Sarah, Marie, and Amanda who have made it a tradition to do high tea at every girls’ weekend we have. This was probably the best one I’ve been to yet!) We ate on palace china. There were finger sandwiches (the egg salad and curry chicken were the best), scones with clotted cream, and pastries. The kids found a sweet, berry tea they enjoyed and didn’t break any dishes (my expectations for their manners were easily exceeded).
Choosing Tea
Maddie Shows Off the Palace China
Tea (and Lemonade and Mom's Champagne)!
The Kids Probably Ate More Sugar Cubes Than Finger Sandwiches
All of Us
Best. Playground. Ever.
Carousel
A storm began to come in, so we finally had to leave. No one was super-hungry, but we needed to eat a little something, so we went back to the same restaurant we visited on our first night. We ate appetizers tapas-style and drank our favorite beers and ciders from the visit. It was a perfect ending to a really nice three days.
Madeline Fell Asleep During Our Two-Minute Train Ride
Side note: There is only one thing this entire trip that the kids made truly impossible to do. Wimbledon was going on and I could have easily spent an entire day watching tennis. Unfortunately, kids under 5 aren’t allowed on the show courts (smart!). Next time!
I told the kids that our trip home would be, literally, the longest day of their lives. We left London at 8am (3am EST) and flew back through Iceland, arriving in Baltimore at 7pm EST. We got home after 9pm. 18 hours of travel.
Despite all of the amazing things we did and saw on this trip, the very best thing about it was realizing that everything we’ve done to raise the girls for the last seven years is finally paying off. It’s been really hard. I’ve put off a lot of my own goals to do it. But now, they are excellent travelers. They are excellent and fun humans. We share actual adult interests (like Harry Potter and playing board games :P). That realization was priceless. I look forward to many more adventures with these two!
It's hard to explain what these were used for to a kid these days...